Thursday, November 11, 2010

The Youghiogheny River: Ohiopyle

One thing I am not going to write about is moving from West Virginia to Iowa. I will not document one of the worst moving experiences of my life, and when I did get here and talked to others who has experienced moving to Iowa from far away, I heard their similar and sometimes more horrifying stories. I took that as a sign that I would be okay here, since they were and are okay here after their horror.

So, I am writing about the days up to the move.

My mother in law, Rebecca, and niece, Bela, flew out to Pittsburgh to help us move. My niece is a cat whisperer and we owe her, or at least I do, our/my sanity…and definitely our cat’s sanity.  Since Bela had never been to West Virginia and there were some special places we wanted to see before the move, we brought her to Ohiopyle.

Ohio Pyle is a state park in Pennsylvania in what they call the Laurel Highlands. The Youghiogheny River runs through the park and attracts rafters and hikers and anyone who wants to see the falls at the center of the park, in the middle of the river, as the river flows down from the highlands and through the hills. There are two Frank Lloyd Wright homes in the area as well: Kentucky Knob and Falling Water. Both are worth the price, but we were there to see the free trees and water.

The falls of the Youghiogheny are amazing and we gazed at them and watched the water run over them. I will remember them fondly, but the hiking along the river was always what I enjoyed the most. Those Eastern rivers have big rocks in them and they flow North. I was used to rivers with small rocks that flow South. I grew up near the Mississippi River in Southern Illinois. It is a broad, sandy river. I knew about sandbars and I knew I would never dip a toe in that polluted water. I was content to swim and boat on the local man-made lake with a bottom of clay and water which no light penetrated.

Then, we  moved to Arkansas and I swam in Table Rock Lake and could see my feet when I was treading water. It felt so clean. It is a lake of rock and green water with cliffs make up the sides of the lakes and rocks that line the bottom and jut out from the sides of the lakes. We would jump out into Beaver Lake off of them and cautiously watch the snakes that would swim over and try to take our sunbathing rock spot, but the rocks there were slabs and the water was calm.

When I went hiking with a dear friend in the Buffalo National Forest in Central Arkansas and we reached the Buffalo river, we were so hot and grateful to see water that we stripped to our last layer of clothes and dived into the river; the cliffs that  line that river are super high, white limestone rock that rose above us and from which trees grow despite its vertical nature. The rocks at the bottom of the river were smooth and small and did not hurt our tired, hot feet. They were slick and kind and the water flew over them a little fast, but still calm. I knew the river was low that year due to drought year number 5 and I believe the same drought is still going. I knew that when it rained, this river was a different kind of river, but I did not see it that day. I saw the calm river of the west that we could dive into without fear of anything but some snakes.

I moved to West Virginia and visited Ohiopyle and saw swift water over huge boulders with an amazing powerful and awesome current. There is water everywhere there—in the trees, in the air, in the green that is also everywhere. And it never recedes in a way I was used to seeing in Arkansas when as the drought continues the lake and river water would recede and reveal more silent boulders under where we had been swimming last year. They were ones that we never saw—the green, deep water hide them—but we sensed their presence. And that kept us from jumping from the cliffs above that overhang the lake and exposed rock shoreline into the green water below. Instead of jumping, we climbed down the overhang to the rocks that met the water and we lived.

 In the Youghiogheny, those rocks were always there. Sure they had water lines, but they were huge and jutted up out of the water, even when it was high water. And the water rushed past them wearing them slowly away. It was not water to jump right into or even to wade right into. T he current was strong, an unwavering force. The water was also cold. We would sometimes go to Ohiopyle to swim and we choose a spot above the falls. The water was that rock green clear I knew, but cold even in July. I was used to the water in Arkansas warming up the end of June, but I swear it was never, even at its coldest, the temperature of the Youghiogheny in spring, summer or fall. The winter snow had melted into it and we could feel it. We had to jump in and be brave or edge ourselves in slowly and when we came back out, we were gonna be a bit numb. The current was always present and always ready to sweep us towards the falls.

I had also never seen natural slides until Ohiopyle. Some local friends of ours told us to go to them. The water, a run really that emptied into Youghiogheny, had gouged out a tube like path in the rock as it gathered and flowed down the side of the highlands as a creek. It was a natural pipe. We visited it about 3 times in the five years we were there. On a hot August day, the trails were packed and people lined up at the top of slides to slide all the way down into shallow pools of water that gathered before the water spilled out of them and went back into the main river. We even tool the trail up and followed the run and found more swimming holes and water falls above the slides. The more rain or snow melt we had, the faster the water flew down the rocks to the river below.

It takes courage to  go down the slides. I was not brave enough to slide down them, as Ernani and our friend Cari were, but I recorded and worried about broken arms and legs as I watched them go down the slides into pools that lead to another set of slides. The limestone was carved out into slides by the water and the angle was a sloop. It was a gentle ride unless there was a lot of rain, then it was quick and scarier as far as I was concerned, but we wanted to take our niece there so she could see it, since it is pretty cool and a once in a lifetime kind of place.

After the slides, we drove to Cucumber Falls. Neither Ernani or I had been there despite our many visits to the park. Waterfalls were always a treat for me. They are hard to find in Arkansas and the best ones there are the ones you run into without expecting to run into when walking a trail. Often the trail will tell you there is one, but when you get to it, it is dry. In the West Virginia area, waterfalls thrive and abound. We had seen many and they never got old. But, those we saw we, we could never get close to like the few I got to get close to on Arkansas trails. The ones in West Virginia were serious. Gallons and gallons of water falls in WV when it falls. It is often not wise to get too close.

We parked in the dusty, rocky parking lot next to the sign for Cucumber Falls and followed the trail as it snaked down to the valley. This was another run, creek, that was making it way to fill the Youghiogheny below it, but this river was not one solid mass of rock the water could carve a path into. Suddenly the water meet a gap and had to fall to reach the ground that sloped to the river. It was a beautiful water fall and behind it was a grotto. We could walk and climb the rocks on the banks of the river it made after it fell and get behind it and dunk our heads into the water falling from high above us. And we did. It was exhilarating. It was not a moment to pass by. Cari, Ernani, Bela and I each took our turn. The day was perfect and I had forgotten about everything but the moment we were in and the pressure of the water on my head, neck and hand as I reached out for it.  We made our way back to Rebecca who took our pictures and then  up the trail to the bridge that crossed the water as it was about to fall off the edge of the rock onto other heads, hands, necks and then to the river. We walked to the car and drove back through green hills and sunshine to reality. 

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