After the movie, we found Ernani and decided to go to the apartment Margaret and her parents were renting for the time they were spending in D.C. It was at the end of 4th Street, so only a few blocks away from downtown. They had parked nearby. We climbed into the car and made our way to a grocery store right next to a Metro station only one block from the apartment complex. We would be able to easily make it back via the Metro to our hotel and spend some quality time together with Margaret and her parents without distractions. It was and ended up being a perfect Friday night.
At the store, we bought wine, chocolate, cheese, bread and crackers, and some kind of meat I avoided. I say we bought, but David paid and would not let us contribute. I watched Ernani as David bought four large bottles of wine. Ernani was surprised at the amount. I knew this family, through Margaret and my time with her. I knew we would kill these bottles and I knew it would be good quality food, wine, and fun. And I knew we were being accepted as part of the family, at least for tonight.
The apartment was perfect for vacation and David told us they had learned long ago to find a local rental. It was cheaper than a hotel and allowed them to shop for food and relax at a place like home. They could shop like locals as well and in D.C. this is a big advantage because of the Eastern Market and the kinds of good food they have there that you can buy and take home. This is not something a tourist in a hotel can always do.
We unwrapped our packages, poured the wine, and got down to the business of learning about each other, and for Margaret and I, catching up. Her parents are wonderful and I knew that David, a lawyer, would have a lot to share with Ernani, a law student to be (by this date he is taking his first classes, but then, we were a couple of months from that experience). And in no time, we lost the men. They talked about law school and politics, Margaret and Katie and I went out on the porch.
Katie was a teacher for the deaf at a school that helps the deaf learn to speak. My best friend in the world is deaf and had this childhood experience, so we talked about that, how cool cochlear implants are, how they are creating children who are deaf but really are not, and how controversial for some deaf communities the CIs are, about AG Bell (my friend is very involved in this great organization), and about teaching in general. Margaret is also a teacher and loves her teaching job. One of the most satisfying subjects for me is teaching and talking to passionate teachers about it. This was one of those times when I had that chance. It was great fun.
Eventually the men came back to join us on the porch and David asked me for a Beat booklist. He assured me and Ernani that Ernani would like and do well in Law school. He and David had become friends. We had such fun together we skipped dinner and got tipsy on wine.
The conversation, the old and now new friends, the view of D.C. from the balcony--of the Potomac River and the sunset--made for a perfect night. I had had many nights like these with Margaret in Tulsa on her porches, back porch and front porch. It was wonderful to share these this one night with Ernani and to know that the next time we are in Tulsa, we will do it again with wonderful people.
There was only one person missing, our dear friend Jamie. Margaret and I and Jamie spent those nights talking and sharing wine and food together. Jamie was back in Tulsa, but that night also in D.C. Margaret and I could not help talking about her and wishing she were here and though my brain is a bit fuzzy from the wine, I think we did call her. This is something Margaret and Jamie do in Tulsa when they are together on the porch and I am missing. They call me and we laugh a lot together like old times.
It was an evening of fun, but we had another day of fun ahead of us, so we left a bit tipsy and took the Metro without any problems back to our area of town. As we were going back (around 11 P.M.), the young were going out all dressed up in nightclub attire. We took a cab with a colorful Kenyan driver back to the hotel.
The next morning, we went back to the apartment via the Metro (filled with Race for the Cure racers). The plan was to go to the Eastern Market, have lunch, and go to the Phillips Collection.
The Eastern Market is one of my favorite places in D.C. It is filled with art, food, clothes, baked goods. We strolled around the art and jewelry stalls and then made our way inside through the groceries: fresh meats, cheeses, vegetables. As always it was packed with people. Lots of families buying for the week.
Outside we walked through the clothes booths. I found a mini-skirt made of saris. When I asked the man how much they cost, he asked me: “How much do you think?” I said, “Thirty bucks,” because I had been seeing them for that much in Eureka Springs, AR and Branson, MO. He laughed and said, “Lower.” I kept going down until I got to 10 dollars, and I got the skirt.
For lunch we went to Zorba’s in Dupont Circle. Zorba’s is a great little Greek restaurant. I changed into my skirt in the bathroom while I waited for my falafel wrap. Everyone enjoyed their meal and I got to remember the last time I was at Zorba’s in 2005 when Pauline and I found the place.
After lunch, we went to the Phillips Collection. I had also been there with Pauline in 2005 and I remembered that they had a large number of impressionist paintings in an old house that has an added on addition and a garden. We happened to choose a day that the museum also hosted a Jazz Festival. Jazz musicians played in a large room that also housed some Goya paintings. The music followed us up and down the stairs and through the rooms of the third floor.
The art museum has a small Rothko room and I like Rothko. Visiting that room was a pleasure, however, the most amazing exhibits were the self portrait of Cezanne, a few beautiful Van Gogh’s, Degas’s Ballerinas, work by John Klee, and the Renoir. Before I go on about the Renoir, let me tell you about another exhibit that was wonderful: Jacob Lawrence’s The Migration Series. Lawrence is a contemporary artist. They placed his work in a room with four walls and he had about 40 paintings per wall that depicted the African American experience in America from the moment they arrived on slave ships, through the civil war, through civil rights, right up to today. His work is amazing. Check it out: http://www.phillipscollection.org/migration_series/index.cfm
I love his eye for color and his depiction of people and events. He has a fantastic style.
Now, the Renoir. They have Renoir’s The Luncheon of the Boating Party. http://www.phillipscollection.org/collection/boating/index.aspx
I have seen many reproductions of this painting and I have always liked it. It is one of Ernani’s favorites. We were excited to be seeing it in person, and after I saw it, I knew why John Berger is right about seeing a painting in person. It makes a difference. There is something lost in the reproduction of a piece.
When I saw the real painting of the boating party, it drew me in. I saw the women facing us looking at the man looking at the women across the table from her and not seeing that the guy standing above her is looking at her. The love triangle was obvious. In fact, no one is looking at the same person. This combined with the texture of the painting and the colors, made the picture alive.
Yes, alive. It was as if at any moment, I would hear the conversation—hear the women with the dog talking baby talk to him. Hear the laughter, the clinking of silver ware, dishes and cups. I would see movement—of the crowd, the eyes, the heads thrown back in glee. It was amazing. It was alive in a way the reproductions never are. The paint glowed and the colors were more vibrant. I was a part of this painting, not just watching it.
I understand why it is a coveted painting and very glad that I got to see it in such a small, intimate room filled with other people who were charmed by it as well. And I look at my reproduction of Irene and I think, I should see her in person someday. I love her. I love her red hair. I love her smile and her innocence about whatever it is the world has in store for her as a women. I love that my Mom looked at this reproduction I have of her and wished for a daughter that looked like her. I love the reproduction of her, so she must be amazing in real life as Renoir immortalized her in dried paint.
After our group had looked its fill, we parted ways. Ernani and I headed back to our hotel and Morgantown. Margaret and her parents headed to more museums and then back to Tulsa. But, soon very soon, we will see each other again.
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