Monday, May 16, 2011

Devonian Fossil Gorge

Iowa damned their river. But, you cannot hold a river back for long. It rained and rained and the water spilled over the top of the dam and rushed to claim its natural channel again. It took more of the natural channel because it could and because it was damned before, so there was more water to take it back. That water had weight and power behind it that it used to loosen rocks and push them far downstream. The river had done this a few times since the damn was built. The first time, when the water receded, it left behind exposed rocks below the damn where its original channel existed. It did this again a second time in 1993. It revealed ancient fossils from the Devonian age, 375 million years ago, when the land in Iowa was under a sea.



We set out to see it with my brother, sister-in-law, and their three kids. As we drove North, out of town, the landscape became hilly. Perhaps because of the hills, I find this part of Iowa especially beautiful. The road twists and turns though woods until it comes to the massive concrete wall that holds back the water, the lake created when the river was damned.



We parked below the dam in visitor parking and tumbled out into the sun. Our exploration of the Devonian Fossil Gorge began. We walked to the gorge itself before we realized that we should have walked to the circular information center just before the gorge, erected by volunteers to showcase the history of the fossils below and give a sense of when and how the animals lived. These were old, old fossils, a record of the past life of a shallow sea where these rocks stand in the old river bed, exposed by the dam and the floods of the present.



At every step, there was a fossil.



We spent our time scouring the rocks and letting those around us know when we saw a find we just had to share. My niece and two nephews would shout out each time they saw one. The littlest nephew shout out most often and most insistently and wanted whoever was closest to see his find. The excitement and challenge of finding one never tired for any of us and was quickly followed by awe in the realization that they had been alive so long ago and we had a picture of them in stone to prove it



We really got into finding them. My sister-in-law had the sharpest eyes of us all and could find the nicest sets of fossils of all of us. She and my brother found one of the most stunning fossils as we moved closer to the dam. It was about a hand wide, a spiral that sparkled where the mica in the rock impression of this sea animal reflected in the sun. We worked our back up the bank. Everywhere we looked, there were fossils, even on the rocks that lined the banks. Eventually we walked back to the circular welcome station to read about the lives these fossils had had in the past.



A day in the sun looking at fossils made us all content as we turned back to present things like dinner and our next activity. As we moved on to our next action, we left behind the rocks and their impressions of a past life. If we return again, when we return again, to scour the rocks for more fossils that we had failed to see in the midst of so many more, they will be there. As the water from the melting winter snows and ice or the floods of future springs come again and again, more fossils will appear and disappear for us to see and miss, if we wish to see them or miss them...and if we do not wish to see them or miss them, they will appear and disappear just anyway